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2020.09.22 02:09 alitxtile 140 Years of Jeans (Part I): TCB’s Natural Indigo Tribute to the 1880 Waist-Overalls
This is Part I of a write up on 140 years of Jeans. This part focuses on the 1880 Waist-Overalls along with a review of TCB Jeans’ 1880 inspired version of the pair. Part II will be on a more modern pair of jeans by Versace and will be posted later this year. As always, a good bit of history in the beginning of this (A) followed by the review of TCB Jeans’ pair (B).submitted by alitxtile to rawdenim [link] [comments]
The start of this decade represents a number of milestones in the history of jeans as we know them . Levi Strauss’ patent on adding rivets to clothing was granted in 1873 yet it is likely that Levi’s own factory didn’t produce until at the 1880’s and most of the oldest pairs we have to my knowledge date to around the this time or a few years prior. This means this is the 15th time a decade has started with riveted clothing being worn. Perhaps just as importantly, this year marks the 140th anniversary of the expiration of Levi’s Strauss patent allowing other companies to produce riveted clothing. Ultimately, the de-Levi-ification of jeans is representative of just how universal their appeal became, the race was not merely for what new innovation would replace riveted clothing but, critically, on how to perfect riveted clothing itself. 140 years on, denim and jeans show no signs of slowing down and continue to define nearly every culture on the planet. This is probably as good of a time as any to go back and look at how we got here and, specifically, to take a deep look at the jeans that so have captured our hearts. Since much has already been written on the history of denim I wanted to take a slightly different approach. Rather than rehashing what we already know I’ll use newspapers from the late-1800’s and early-1900’s to portray what these jeans meant to people and to recapture stories now lost. TCB’s 1880’s waist overalls, based on jeans from the period, will be my window into relating to these stories so by the end I will transition to some reflections based on these jeans and discussing their fabric, construction, as well as their modern-day appeal and their relationship to modern jeans. Also, keep in mind that the term “overall” didn’t refer only to the bib-overall that we connect it with now but was a loose definition meaning something that would be a protective layer—so a pair of overalls could simply come up to one’s waist just like a pair of jeans.
Natural indigo with left-right construction, deerskin leather patch, copper rivets, steel suspenders buttons, and an iron cinch.
(A) Historical Context
The patent system in the United States by the mid to late 1800’s all manner of creative ways from which to improve clothing. These “improvements” in clothing included adjusting them for various waist sizes, increasing durability in high-stress areas, as well as on methods on measuring, cutting, and maintaining clothing. Theodore Sloan for instance in 1870 was a granted a patent for the application of a strengthening fabric at the knees of pantaloons so they would not wear down so readily. Patrick W. Dolan received a grant in 1868 for a ruler specifically constructed for more “correct” measurements of mens pantaloons.
A little over six months after Jacob W. Davis and Levi Strauss’ applied for a patent on adding rivets to clothing, John D. Ryan was granted a patent on a device for maintaining the shape of pantaloons writing that,
My invention has for its object to furnish a device for stretching pantaloons to remove the bagging at the knees, and the wrinkles in the other parts caused by wear, so that the pantaloons may be made perfectly smooth without its being necessary to send them out every few days to be cleaned and pressed, and which shall be simple in construction and convenient in use.Who needs shoe-trees when you can have pantaloon-trees:
Looks like there is an outline of a cinch in the top!
It’s the addition of rivets to clothing, of course, that is at the center of the jeans-story. While John Davis and Levi Strauss were aware that rivets had been used to secure shoes, Davis’ application involved adding rivets to the pocket opening of the jeans/pantaloons that were likely to fail under pressure. The button fly here was included in the category of “pocket-opening” as in construction and pressure it was essentially an area where an opening was present. The presence of metal rivets so visible on a piece of clothing was likely a curiosity.
The presence of the rivets was originally proposed as “applicable to pantaloons, overalls, coats, vests, and other garments.” But it was the overalls that would be most receptive to the new riveting technique with their convolvement being a potent combination of both durability and comfort. Overalls had become by the 1880’s the premiere workwear outfit. Companies such as Sweet & Orr produced these overalls for workers and created representations and images highlighting their ruggedness. The following ad shows two men battling over a pair of Sweet & Orr’s overalls (The Abilene reflector. September 11, 1884):
Two (Three?) men brand?
Sweet & Orr was likely one of the first clothing producers to popularize this image and predated Levi’s horse logo with the latter potentially being a case of trying to one-up Sweet & Orr’s human strength driver tug of war game with old fashioned horse-power. Sweet & Orr also owned their own factory for producing overalls while it is unclear how early Levi Strauss did so. So, regardless of whether they were riveted or not overalls quickly became the definition of a rugged and free lifestyle. So many stories in the end of the 19th century were intimately connected to overalls: from marriage to murder, life to death. I have selected a few forgotten stories to help capture what overalls meant. Let’s start with an old professor who lost his job partly due to his refusal to wear anything but dirty overalls.
The Evening Bulletin in Maysville, Kentucky dated to April 18th, 1888 (Number 126) recounts the curious tale of one Alex E. Cohen. Mr. Cohen had moved to Andover around 1860 from New York where he had been teaching the children of the leading families in the languages. His knowledge of Hebrew literature was so impressive that he was given an assistant position at the Andover Theological seminary. The article continues,
He was a very scholarly man, but the very impersonation of carelessness in dress. It is said of him that he frequently appeared before the dignified divinity students unwashed and collarless, a boot on one foot and a rubber on the other. His favorite pantaloon material was overalling. For his uncleanliness and slovenly attire he was expelled from the seminary.Mr. Cohen when he first moved to Andover was, per the article, ridiculed for his manner of dress and all sorts of rumors were created about his marriage. After his wife moved to the town the year after him the townspeople were shocked at what a charming woman she was. Both lived together in hermitage for 12 or 13 years.
In Mr. Cohen’s case we can see that the comfort provided by of a worn-down pair of overalls is considerable. And if one could not afford more pants, overalls became the de-facto companions to see one through thick and thin. The “ruggedness” of overalls soon became connected with the definition of plasticity and adaptability. Because the overall could do anything and help its wearer in the tasks of life, it itself became a symbol of openness.
By the early 1900’s its clear that the ability to wear the overall if only during out-door activities was both seen as desirable by women as well in out-door activities and was not by any means only for men. The Sun Francisco Sunday Call from September 27, 1907, for instance, describes a group at the camp of women telegraphers referred to as the overall-girls: “[t]here are lots of [. . .] women in Camp Felton and many of them wear overalls.” We even see here that one woman was not “allowed” to wear overalls by her husband and, due to it, was frustrated. Let us not forget that women were still given the right to vote. There is of course a deep irony in having to be given the permission to don something as adaptable as the overall but it is exactly this tension that gave the symbol strength. Wearing the overall when not allowed was of course what made it an even stronger symbol.
The overalls becoming a symbol for adaptability was not only an issue for rigid gender roles but also for rich and poor. The San Francisco Call from August 7th, 1904 contains a rebuttal against those who saw the overalls as unacceptable for the highest dignity a human should aspire to. One Mr. Hearst, had laid an attack on overalls when seeing a rich man’s son donning them:
Mr. Hearst is of the opinion that a rich man’s son should have an ambition above wearing overalls and learning handicraft. The overalls seem to be the specially offensive and are referred to with a bitterness of expression which we thought could not be excited by that harmless and necessary article of clothing. Mr. Hearst if of the opinion that a rich man’s son should put in his time doing good, elevating his fellow man, as it were, and declares that this Young man in overalls is not fulfilling that high mission. We can see no occasion for all this fuss. Men who have had traces and worn overalls had done many a good job at elevating their fellows, and history asks no question about what they wore, whether trousers or overalls.In fact, the author continues that wearing of the overalls and working with in the shop “shows a very commendable spirit in a rich man’s son that he desires to join his fellow-men in a workshop, learn their trade, take pot luck with them and train his hands to skill in a useful and honorable occupation.” In fact, it seems that Mr. Hearst was against the exclusiveness of the rick yet, the author states, makes a lapse in his usual view because a “rich youngster has dropped exclusiveness and wears overalls and chews his lunch out of a tin bucket.”
The humble overall because it was so inconspicuous, better yet conspicuously inconspicuous allowed the discussion to shift away from attire and onto the actual character of the person. That of course has commonly been the elephant in the room of fashion. Gianni Versace when interviewed about his distaste for ties stated that:
I have a kind of repulsion to. . . for the things you are obliged to wear. Sometimes they send me out of an restaurant, [saying] why I don’t wear a tie. And inside that restaurant there was even mafioso. You can kill people if you wear a tie. (60 minutes)Betraying what we feel obliged to wear, in this case, becomes an act of self and social calibration to determine whether the superficiality of our appearance or our actions are weighed more heavily by our peers. The overall because of its humility became the touchstone, the measuring bar for this. I like to think that Mr. Cohen, the overall-women, and the rich man’s son all saw it as an instrument for testing the limits of their own freedom.
There is a danger of course in idolizing the overall or its situation. There were dirty and horrible truths amongst the positives. Overall manufacturing and labor, connected with questions of the rights of the work-force as well as immigrant-labor, was at times convolved with horribly racist movements like those seen in the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882: The act in different stages used Chinese, Korean, Japanese, and other “Asian” groups as scapegoats for the working man or woman’s trouble and clothing manufacturing was used as a way to scare people into thinking their sewing jobs would be taken by immigrants. Ads from the time-period went as far as to mention that their overalls were produced with white-labor. So if overalls were beginning to be representative of freedom or adaptability their construction and the labor behind it was capable of being co-opted or infected by the most abhorrent human vices. Thankfully, it seems that raw denim in the long run, despite attempts to do otherwise, has maintained its boundary breaking character. The development of the raw denim community as diverse as it is, linking different countries, with cottons from all over the world, and styles which mix inspirations from different cultures is something to grow and protect. The overall and jeans by extension continue to be the article of clothing for everyone gender, race, and class—they transcend that which sought to limit them yet. But the history highlights that this requires constant vigilance.
Going back to this history, even when overall-manufacturing was romanticized, as seen in an article in the Sunday Call article titled "Experiences as a worker in an overall factory" from August 12, 1900, we can see that companies were quite interested in maintaining productivity:
Presently my thread got tangled up and pop went another needle. The girl next to me kindly Stopped work and gave me a few pointers. "You must be careful,", said she, "needles count up. and you know we have to buy them, three for a nickel. Just so slow and you're all right. Look out how you turn on the power,. If you break that big wheel band it's two bits. The little one is 20 cents."The desire to drive down the cost of overalls manifested as pressure put on the sewing ladies who had to buy the needles they broke. The Weekly Crisis of June 2, 1881 contains a call for overalls to be protected from being merely tools for the fundholders:
Five pair of overalls for a dollar, is a creamy paradise for the fundholders. If the fundholder can swap his dollar that is now worth five pair of overalls for a dollar that is worth ten pair, we will be in his “kingdom come.” If five more pair of overalls could be crowded into a dollar, the fundholder’s dollar would be doubled in value, without his doing a strokes of work; but the sewing woman would have to take twice as many stitches to get the dollar. Hostile law has made one man richer by making another poorer, and they call it strengthening the public credit.Thus the desire for the overall to be a rugged yet cheap article had, in the author’s eyes, only the allure of the public good while in reality creating worst working conditions for the common woman or man. And how valuable a well-fitting, cheap, and durable pair of pants is was taken to its negative extreme in an article in the Chicago Tribune from February 3rd, 1876 titled “Overalls and Murder”.
Since the original story may be too graphic for some I’ll simply summarize: Because “Mrs. Silar Wilder made a pair of overalls too short,” Silas murdered her as well as his father than himself. The full article despite being graphic contains many satirical elements and notes of commentary. It points out that an overall cut too short is essentially like the breeches worn by George Washington. An overall in one point of time that is too short would be considered too long in another. Through such a telling, the “point” of the article is that overalls ought not be taken too seriously, whether too short or too long they are merely tools of utility. Again, such articles were seemingly attempting to push back against the fashionization of the overall. The overall could only be taken seriously if it wasn’t taken too seriously.
There are of course many more stories around overalls that I have left out; many comedic, some some serious, and others horrifying. Why did it capture everyone’s attention in such a manner? If it is because it was a workwear item then the immediate next question is why was it a workwear item? Why did it become a symbol of adaptability that then had to be protected, and continues to have to be, from negatives such as poor pay, class elitism, gender-roles, and racism? To better understand this I wanted to return to the source by wearing a modern-day jeans inspired by the 1880 waist-overalls. I’ll first introduce you to the construction, fit, and fabric of the TCB’s 1880 overalls and then come back to reflecting on where these waist-overalls fit in the modern world.
(B) TCB Jeans Natural Indigo 1880 Waist-Overalls:
What makes the TCB Jeans so unique is while many companies historically have out-sourced their sewing, including Levi’s in the beginning and even now, TCB Jeans is an entirely in-house sewing operation. Where jeans are sewn, how they are sewn, when they are sewn is usually unknown to the consumer. Yet with TCB Jeans this trend is bucked, we can see that Kikk does all the cutting for their items on the third floor of the main building. All the sewing is done in the second floor. Shiba does the hemming for most of the jeans ordered. Matsu the teen handles adding rivets and attaching cinch-backs to jeans. Yuko-Rin sews every prototype for new TCB products. Ryo handles international customers and helps disseminate the knowledge of TCB to an english speaking audience—I learned a lot from his pamphlet on these jeans that describes how they are constructed, I urge everyone to look at it. Master sewists like Tak handle difficult sewing sections. And Miko handles the behind the scene logistics, and, of course, everyone knows Hajime Inoue as the brand’s owner. The team makes up a sort of denim super hero group coming up with ideas for denim, having fabric custom woven for them, cutting and stitching themselves. And the sewing machines, both old and new, are of course a intrinsic part of the designs and construction chosen by TCB Jeans. This integration, as we will see, makes for a remarkably cohesive pair of jeans and allows TCB to recreate exacting details that elevate denim.
The rivets in all their glory
Selvedge X 4, Sewing x 4
The construction on the 1880’s waist-overalls is simply the best I have ever seen on any pair of jeans. It is sublime. It’s such a tour-de-force that I can’t help but feel that TCB Jeans is simply bragging about what they are capable of. So I want to spend a little time going into the details.The 1880 Waist-Overalls are based on the earliest pairs from 1879 onwards. At this time, these overalls were not flat-felled seam or chain-stitched. Instead they were stitched together with a lapped seam with the edges left completely raw and unfinished.
Selvedge and raw-lapped seams are an experience
Now, to us modern-day denim aficionados we would certainly be familiar with flat-felled seams because they hide the unfinished part of a fabric inside the fold where it is not visible.
It looks nice and clean. One would normally think that this means that the fabric is protected so it will not unravel. Given that the 1880-waist overalls have unfinished seams how could this be prevented? This is where the sewing of TCB shines. Rather than simply stitching two pieces of fabric together with a single thread, the waist overalls contain not one, not two, not three, but four separate threads. And the entire length of all these seams is sew with cotton thread. So as one thread breaks there are three more to replace it. So the seams were not simply stitched once with a double chain-stitch as is common but the machine was taken over the seam multiple times.
You can see two stitches on the right and then a third to their left; but even further left there is yet another thread holding the seam secured tightly (This photo was hard to take, sorry for the quality)
Recall, the whole point of the appeal of the overalls in the past was that their ruggedness and durability bucked the trend of what one ought to dress like. Despite looking “unfinished” because of the exposed seams the waist-overalls contain far more workmanship than more finished pairs of denim. The superbly stitched lapped seams are even more interesting because they are contrasted with the opposite on all ends: selvedge.
The rest of the jeans contain more selvedge edges than any other pair of jeans. The outseam, of course, is selvedge like all selvedge jeans. The watch-pocket too. The button fly, however, is also selvedge, and the entire waist band the all the way around is also selvedge. Simply opening the jeans one is hit by vast swathes of selvedge edges contrasted with quad stitched lapped seams with threads flying out. The loose threads even wrap around each other securing themselves further and can be seen sticking out the hem. It’s one hell of a party trick.
That selvedge button fly? Stitched again with single-needle stitching. You can see that the bottom of the stitching comes closer and closer which, usually, cannot happen because it is double stitched.
The simplicity of the selvedge is gorgeous. So clean. And the contrast between the clean selvedge and the raw edges is an experience.
The raw edges have spun around each other further securing themselves to the left while the clean selvedge peaks out on the right.
Cinches? Cinches and Buttons
The cinch is the most critically important part of these jeans for me. In the late 19th century, belts were not yet fashionable so overalls contained suspenders buttons as well as cinches.
This might seem like just a detail but when we come back to thinking about the utility of these overalls it will be quite important. The cinch is perfectly located below the middle of the waist band. Meaning that if you tighten the cinch it doesn’t tighten directly on your stomach. It tightens below and behind it which keeps the pants up while the waistband is still pliable enough to stretch and grow on the front with you as you eat, drink, and workout throughout the day. The cinch is held together by a custom made iron-piece with prongs sharp enough to hold the belt. Wearing these for over six months the cinch hasn’t slid even once!
The jeans also contain a host of steel buttons that are already starting to rust quite nicely. The button-fly features five buttons while the suspender buttons are the same as the top-most button and six in number.
The rivets, of course, where what made the original Levi’s legendary. Two for the watch-pocket and two for each of the front pockets, two for the single pocket in the back, and as was tradition, one for the crotch, and lastly two for the cinch. They are copper and feel light yet strong.
Closer up of the rivets
The leather patch on the back is mixed tanned being both vegetable and chrome tanned and is made out of deerskin. The deerskin has a soft texture that fits the pliability of the jeans as a whole and the mixed tannage gives it a natural look while still giving water resistance to age without becoming stiff.
Putting it Together
It’s important to note that when these jeans were constructed in the 1880’s they were not sew as they are now with the front and back being sewn separately then stitched together. Instead, overalls were made by sewing the left and right sides first and then stitching them together through the middle. Additionally, fabrics were pressed with a iron when sewing the seams together rather than using a seam-guide. The fact that TCB recreated even these details really shows that no corner was cut.
In my opinion, the fabric, which I’ll get to in a second, is absolutely perfect for the construction. The benefit of lapped seams over flat-felled seams is that it reduces how bulky the seam is—it makes the seams feel like they are non existent. Combined with a lighter fabric it really feels as if the entire jeans are just a single piece of fabric rather than something held together at the seams.
Natural indigo, American cotton, 8oz
There was no synthetic indigo in the late 1800’s so any indigo dying had to be done by using leaves from the indigo plants. The leaves for TCB Jean’s waist-overalls are grown in India. While the original pairs would have been vat-dyed TCB elected to rope-dye the jeans so that they fade. The threads are dipped in the Indian indigo pool 8 times each without any synthetics used.
Who said 8 oz fabric can’t have incredible feel and texture? Just LOOK at it!
The threads are themselves made using American cotton. I believe that are two kinds of American cotton used to give it a fluffier feel. The end result is a very hairy fabric with a heterogenous color, the natural indigo being darker in some areas than others.
Let’s talk about the weight. This is by far the lightest pair of jeans I have and I was worried initially that the starchy, stiff, rough and heavier feel of 13-18 oz denim would be missed. Having worn these over six months, I have not even once wished that they were heavier. The fabric is so fluffy and hairy and supple that those same 8 oz take up more space in your hand. Additionally, this isn’t a high density high tension lightweight fabric that feels like a shirt, the lower tension of shuttle looms seems to have led to something that feels airy and pliable yet substantial at the same-time.
The color of the fabric is also, to my eyes, beautiful. The natural indigo has a little iridescence to it (not unlike the roadrunner cotton) and a slightly bluer look than the deep purples of synthetic indigo. Both look beautiful but I think the softness of the natural indigo really fits the softer, fluffier, hairier look of the denim. It’s got an oceanic tone to it that is really pleasing.
Worn with a loopwheeled fox cotton t-shirt.
Worn with Tricker’s deerskin chukkas
The construction and fabric, from the cinch to the natural indigo, the American cotton to the rivets, the selvedge to the steel buttons, leads to a pair of jeans that has completely changed the game for me when it comes to utility. If I had to spend the rest of your life in a pair of pants and was never allowed to change this is the undisputed ace. If I have to be stranded on an island this no question hands down the pair I would take. Their loose fit means means that you can run around and jump without feeling restricted, the lack of traditional seams means you can lounge on a couch and be no less comfortable than with pajamas. They are long enough and dense enough to protect from fast wind yet light enough not to hold your body-heat in. Their loose fit again means that they leave enough room for a thermal or long-johns underneath while letting in the air in hot weather. Gained a little waist or ate a big lunch? Loosen the cinch. They are the definition of utility.
Fit Pic 1, worn with my beloved Fox Cotton Type I Jacket
Fit Pic 2, worn with my beloved Fox Cotton Type I Jacket
Reflecting on the 1880’s
I originally looked to TCB’s 1880 jeans as well as newspaper and patents to try and better understand why waist-overalls and their jean descendants have so taken the world by storm cutting across gender, ethnicity, culture, and class.
It’s clear that the late 1800’s were filled with attempts to make the perfect pair of pantaloons. From measuring rulers to jean-stretching devices to ways of sewing button-flys to creating strengthened seams everyone tried to make pants better. Standards for how a pair of pants should be sewn were still evolving and everyone experimented with new techniques. The end result was an age of innovation in construction and stylistic techniques. Yet, there were still no seam guides nor any chain-stitching so the tools available were narrower. The 1880 overalls look and feel like the end product of that innovation were everything had its purpose. The lightweight seams actually make the rivets feel like they are points of strength while with the thicker seams of modern jeans the rivets feel like they exist more for aesthetics. And without bar-tacking the rivets, again, feel again like they have a critical job to do. There is something about their simplicity that is so compelling. No overlock, just single needle stitching, rivets, steel buttons, iron cinch, fabric, and a leather patch. The fabric itself is so incredibly raw, just pure natural indigo over the hairiest fluffiest lightweight American cotton with low tension selvedge.
That makes them liberating in so many ways. They aren’t about projecting an image, they are not only as Versace would say, something we don’t feel obliged to wear but something even rawer and simpler than any other pair of pants. What’s funny of course is that the time put into recreating these simple humble jeans requires more work than any designer label would put into it. From the natural indigo to the quad stitched seams to the single-needle lock-stitch to the ironing and constructing the jeans left to right, they are a remarkable piece of art.
I’ve struggled to come to terms with what the 1880’s mean even after wearing them for six months. They continually amaze me and have probably caused me more angst about what I think denim is about than any other pair. They’re a bit *too* good. Have we really not improved on jeans in 140 years? Is it possible that we just perfected what a pair of utilitarian pants ought to be like and since then have diversified more than improved?
The fact that people like Mr.. Cohen, the overall-women, and the rich-man’s son were so frustrated with not being able to wear overalls that they would transgress their social boundaries is a bit less surprising now. The 1880’s were a product of a lot of hard work, of trying to make people’s lives easier. Once someone donned the overalls it seems going back to anything else didn’t have the same allure. The 1880 overalls somehow free the body and the soul.
Interestingly, I don’t think my appreciation for other jeans has diminished with my experience with the 1880. Looks and silhouette and fades and thicker fabric and the wonderful strength of chain-stitching seams are incredible. But I think its easier to see why those are so interesting when you have contrast. Once we made the perfect pair of utilitarian pants we could compromise here and there to make them look nicer and feel more substantial while still maintaining their casual appeal. The 1880 was a gateway to the wonderful world of modern denim. So it’s really unfortunate that with the advent of the 501’s that the 1880’s got lost in history because modern jeans only make sense when we understand what gave them their impetus.
One last note to conclude:
I think one might wonder what is the exact point of recreating older denim. Is bringing back the 1880 overalls a bit like trying to bring the first Macintosh computer in the modern age of smart phones? Something unwieldy and out of place? In reality, I now feel that it is more like creating Jurassic Park. Trying to recapture the sewing techniques, the style, and substance of the past is tremendously difficult and an art of its own. So the 1880’s are more like a dinosaur. Not in the sense that they are old and dusty but because they are like a T-Rex: absolute wonders of what happens when you take something to its extreme. What can we do when we forget everything except trying to design the most liberating pair of jeans? TCB Jeans by bringing that back are bringing a monster into a new world. And that monster doesn’t for a second pale in comparison to its living descendants or relatives. It has a different architecture but its so committed to a particular way of doing things that there is barely anything that can compete with it on *that* singular focus. The king isn’t dead, long live the king.
2020.09.21 02:47 Leather_Term Meet Brock Pierce, the Presidential Candidate With Ties to Pedophiles Who Wants to End Human Trafficking
In 2011, you spoke at the Mindshift conference supported by Jeffrey Epstein. At that point, he had already been convicted of soliciting prostitution from a minor. Why did you agree to speak?You’ve launched your campaign in Minnesota, where George Floyd was killed by a police officer. How do you feel about the civil uprising against police brutality?
I had never heard of Jeffrey Epstein. His name was not on the website. I was asked to speak at a conference alongside Nobel Prize winners. It was not a cryptocurrency conference, it was filled with Nobel Prize winners. I was asked to speak alongside Nobel Prize winners on the future of money. I speak at conferences historically, two to three times a week. I was like, “Nobel Prize winners? Sounds great. I’ll happily talk about the future of money with them.” I had no idea who Jeffrey Epstein was. His name was not listed anywhere on the website. Had I known what I know now? I clearly would have never spoken there. But I spoke at a conference that he cosponsored.
What’s your connection to the Clinton Global Initiative? Did you hear about it through Jeffrey Epstein?
I joined the Clinton Global Initiative as a philanthropist in 2006 and was a member for one year. My involvement with the Initiative had no connection to Jeffrey Epstein whatsoever.
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2020.09.09 02:31 Cryptolexicon (LIFESTYLE) - The MGTOW Playbook for Male Professionals
submitted by Cryptolexicon to ReportMaleHateSubs [link] [comments]
"This is sensible advice every male professional can get behind. No private coaching/mentoring and NEVER, ever alone in a meeting room with a woman."
He knows. Absolutely, positively no hugs and Zero Fucks Given if feelings are hurt. Protect your career and your business!
To take a man down, no proof is required. Protect your career - Keep them at a Safe Distance.
A man's life is easily crushed.
False allegations of rape and sexual harrassment can swiftly lay waste to what has taken years to build: your career, your business.
And so, the need for male professionals to mitigate the risk of false allegations has become an absolute priority.
These simple strategies will help:
Even if you take precautions, it is still possible to find yourself being the object of false allegations.
The best strategy to prevent this from happening is to avoid high risk circumstances. However, even if an innocent man is falsely accused he still has options.
Below you will find quick and dirty strategies for surviving false allegations - and quickly shutting down accusers.
Play HardBall - Sue the Accuser immediately.https://preview.redd.it/lei3e2sgo0m51.jpg?width=1429&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3296f2630846f333caab597b1eee862f7f8599e6
- Derrick Rose plays basketball for the New York Knicks. He was humiliated by a false rape accusation made by a woman who sued him for $ 21.5 million dollars. Derrick counter sued his accuser once he was cleared (Al-Othman, Hannah (2016). Derrick Rose demands $ 70,000 compensation from woman who falsely accused him of rape. Daily Mail, Nov 16 2016).
- John Henning was falsely accused of being a pedophile. He sued his accuser. He won a financial award and a public apology. (Evans, Martin (2019). Former MP falsely accused of abuse wins libel action. The Telegraph, Jan 27 2019).
- Dhameer Bradley and Malik Hilaire were falsely accused of rape by Nikki Yovino, causing them to lose their football scholarships to Sacred Heart University. They sued the school and their false accuser. (Rodriguez, Katherine (2018). Former college football players sue student, college over fake rape claim. Breitbart, Oct 30 2018).
- Colonel David Riggins was accused of rape by Susan Shannon, causing him to lose a promotion to Brigadier General. Riggins sued Shannon, winning $ 8.4 million dollars.(Jackman, Tom (2017). Jury orders blogger to pay $ 8.4 million to ex-Army colonel she accused of rape. The Washington Post, Aug 11 2017).
Take a Polygraph and Release the Resultshttps://preview.redd.it/mwqjlwnho0m51.jpg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4061927418f6c4dfb603b859fca6964106370f92
- Roy Moore was accused of being a pedophile. He quickly took a polygraph and released the results which said he was not lying when he denied the accusation.(Martosko, David (2017). I'm not a pedophile and I've got the polygraph to prove it. Daily Mail, Dec 28 2017).
- Russell Simmons was accused of forcing a 17 year old girl into giving oral sex in 1991. He immediately took a polygraph, provided a picture of him being tested and then his attorneys released the results. (Russell Simmons takes polygraph after assault allegations. TMZ, Dec 14 2017).
Press Release or Full Page Newspaper DenialBuzzfeed ran an embarrassing story about a young man accused of rape. Attorney Ivey Gilmore was hired to represent him. Her first action was to take out a full page ad in the local paper titled "Character Assassination in the Internet Age", where she characterized the lawsuit as "an attempt to extort money." Gilmore noted text messages, email and photographs which showed the rape accusation was false. She pointed out this evidence caused police to close their investigation. (Roundtree, Cheyenne and Snejana Farberov (2017). Attorney for man accused of raping Alabama student who committed suicide releases full-page ad claiming her text messages exonerate him. Daily Mail, Jul 27 2017).
Hit 'em Hard and Fast - Deny and Make a Counter-Accusationhttps://preview.redd.it/43t2igdio0m51.jpg?width=545&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e64ccb16c4266246155371fbc9889978af92a31b
- When Kevin Spacey was publically humiliated with a lawsuit claiming he sexually assaulted a teenager, he immediately responded with counter-accusations that the teen sought to be introduced to him, the teen flirted with him, the teen gave Spacey his phone number and the teen lied about his age. (Spargo, Chris (2019). Kevin Spacey fires back at accuser. Daily Mail, Jan 08 2019).
- When soccer star Neymar Santos was publically accused of rape he immediately released photos and x-rated messages from his accuser showing otherwise. (Tahir, Tariq (2019). Neymar 'rape' scandal: Neymar shares x-rated messages and photos he claims were sent to him by rape accuser. The Sun, Jun 02 2019).
- When Mohamed Hadid was accused of date rape he immediately released text messages from his accuser showing she aggressively and willingly participated in sex. He also accused her of extortion. (Parry, Ryan (2018). 'I miss your soft lips and juicy [eggplant emoji]!' Daily Mail, Mar 12 2018).
Reveal Dirt to Stop an Opponent's momentumWhen Virginia governor Ralph Northam received considerable attention in the press on his support for late-term abortion, a former classmate slowed Northam's momentum down by revealing a photo of Northam and a friend in a Ku Klux Klan/ blackface photograph. (Caplan, Joshua (2019). Ralph Northams abortion comments prompted classmate to reveal racist photo. Breitbart, Feb 04 2019).
Deny and State Sympathy for the false accuserWhen he was accused of sexual assault Chris Hardwick said the accusations were false and devastating. Chris said he wishes his accuser well. (Burke, Minyvonne, and Michelle Curran (2018). 'I was heartbroken to read her post, but did not sexually assault Chhloe.' Daily Mail, Jun 16 2018).
2020.09.06 02:31 kittyaphrodite Looksmaxxing with your lifestyle- part one
2020.09.04 20:59 Dungeon_Dice JoJo's Bizarre OC Tournament #5 - Round 2 Match Select
|1||Agriculture||1v1||Close/Mid Range, Of Legal Drinking Age||Is this what the philosophers call 'Homer Mode?'|
|2||Slums||1v1||Object Manipulation||"Well I just might replace you with a match stick, and gasoline."|
|3||Shopping||2v2||Any||"Wait, restart, we forgot to turn off items."|
|4||Business||1v1||Close Range||Take a hike to Big Bill Hell's!|
|5||Industrial||1v1||Any||”Fire in the disco/ Fire at the gates of Hell…”|
|6||Agriculture||2v?||Any||Well it isn't West Virginia, the bull is out to pasture, the rabbit is gone and the kid doesn't know anything... (Special)|
|7||Suburb||2v2||Environmental Manipulation||Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right, but three rights make a left.|
|8||College||1v1||Any||“You, you can do anything you want to…” (Experimental)|
|9||Waterfront||2v2||Any||"Is it worth it? / A new winter coat and shoes for the wife…"|
|10||Downtown||1v1||Any||"Mickey! It's Riku. They put bugs in him!"|
|11||Entertainment||2v2||Power, Object Manipulation||"Bet it all on black."|
|12||Downtown||2v?||Any||I got a letter this morning, what do you reckon it read? (Special)|
|13||Waterfront||1v1||Subtle Combat||"Empty your mind of everything that doesn't have to do with fine dining, fine dining and breathing."|
|14||Industrial||2v2||Any||"Don't fire until you see the whites of their eyes!"|
|15||Slums||1v1||User builds||After this we're getting waffles. (Experimental)|
|16||Business||2v2||Any||"Prepare for trouble." "And make it double!"|
|17||Entertainment||1v1||Mid Range, Athletic User||"The universe is giving me strong hints that it's time for a career change."|
|18||Industrial||2v?||Any||We are the hammer, you are the nail. (Special)|
|19||College||2v2||Stealthy, Speedy, or Decent-range Builds; or User-focused builds||"We will take your distorted desires without fail."|
|20||Downtown||1v1||Any||"Can I believe it?" (Experimental)|
2020.09.03 05:10 doodleonwalls My Long Plotty Rare-pair Recs
Percy/Oliver. 85k words. An amazing character study of Percy Weasley post-canon. Author gave Percy a magical malady (mental) that surprisingly fits into canon. Deals with mental health issues while he goes about trying to solve a murder mystery. Could benefit from a more liberal use of commas, though.Lost in My Own Home by aibidil
Teddy/James Sirius. 105k words. Unspeakable Teddy Lupin from a non-canon universe accidentally hops to a universe that's probably canon, where Harry married Ginny and had kids. The differences, particularly one James Sirius Potter, has him all out of sorts. It's a very feel-good fic.The Burren by Acatnamedeaster, littleblackbow, thiliart (thilia)
Harry/Oliver. 52k words. The magic in this doesn't really feel like HP magic, but it's a whole vibe in itself. Harry and Ginny have recently separated, and Harry goes on a road trip, basically, searching for something. He finds Oliver. The main draw of this fic is, as I said, the vibe of this fic. It's like a sleepy stirring, or a feeling of quiet anticipation. It's the feel of a small but closely-knit town by the ocean. Peaceful and sort of melancholy, but also joyful. At one with nature but at its mercy.Privacy & Patience by imamaryanne
Harry/Neville. 59k words. Auror Harry has been dating Neville for a while now, but clings desperately to secrecy, wanting just this one thing to be kept away from public scrutiny. Also, he's put in charge of his first big case as an auror - a string of serial murders. The murder mystery was a delight.A Study in Choices and Second Chances by queerofthedagger
Harry/Regulus. 90k words. A Deathly Hallows AU where Sirius lives and Harry finds a number of letters Regulus wrote to Sirius but never sent while searching for the Locket at Grimmauld. A ritual in the final letters unintentionally rips Regulus from the brink of death in his time to the present. The first chapter alone, with excerpts of the letters Reg wrote, gutted and impressed me with how it painted and fleshed out the personality and life story of Regulus over the years.The Second String by eider_down
Harry/Gideon Prewett. 382k words. Ongoing. Harry time travels to the Marauder era following the Privet Drive Dementor attack and tries to avoid everyone in a manic attempt to not derail the timeline. Predictably, things don't go well for a kid isolating himself completely. The first part is extremely angsty, but it doesn't stay like that. A bunch of rarely used HP characters play prominent roles in this fic.In a Country Churchyard by Franzbibliothek
Harry/Cedric. 23k words. An amazing summer after 4th year AU where Cedric lives and decides that it's his duty to keep Harry protected over the summer. He goes with him to Privet Drive. Pre-slash. The characters feel and act authentically. The fic never devolves into a series of cliche contrived rom-com/angst encounters due to a shared living space, which I was convinced would happen due to the premise. It was more of a mood study: the suffocation of Privet Drive, the high tensions from the information embargo, the stress form bad press and betrayals, etc.Potter's Law by seedee
Ron/Dean. 30k words. They both work at St. Mungo's and are tasked with finding the cure to a new and fatal contagion. The contagion plot was fascinating, and I loved the way characters with various skillsets came together to solve the magical malady. I felt deeply the tension/dread of the situation as well as the passion/desperation of the characters involved.The Oil Painting of Our Youth by nilafhiosagam
Harry/Regulus. 66k words. Both teens wake up in a dark cell together, and neither can remember how they ended up there. I loved how the layers of the mystery slowly peeled away. I loved how distinct and empathetic the various points of view were and how the teenagers acted like teenagers.Lost in Reality by seedee
George/Lee. 40k words. George has gained an unhealthy dependence on an experimental product he and Fred worked on together before his death. He isn't coping with loss well, and he uses it to escape into his dreams. Lee gets stuck trying to get George out. I loved the angst, the growing desperation, the tough love, and how even the reader loses grasp on reality as the author takes full advantage of the dream setting.Mistakes by SebastianL
Neville/OC. 150k words. An offshoot of the wildly popular Drarry work "The Man Who Lived" by the same author, which frankly I didn't really like. The world in Mistakes felt instantly familar in a way lower income New York didn't in TMWL which was quite divorced from the magical world of Harry Potter. The characters as well. I adored Neville and the OC, and the plot was gutting. I wish sebL explored a bit more of the political situation, both behind the scenes and the fallout afterwards, that spurred the plot of the fic into motion, but as it was Nev's POV, it was never his primary concern.Something New Every Day by imamaryanne
Harry/Neville. 38k words. Harry gets a divorce and takes up the DADA position at Hogwarts, where Neville is already teaching. It's an authentic feeling slow-burn aside from a bit of the dialogue towards the beginning. It's a budding relationship between mellower adults, and it certainly plays out that way. They still occasionally act like idiots though as a result of deeply rooted personality traits.To Do a Weasley by AnnaFugazzi
George/Lee. 20k words. Set during OotP. It's almost heartbreakingly innocent in the context of the looming war in the background. The author captured the feeling of adolescence, camaraderie, and love while tensions mount all around them. The fic really excels at showing how a group of near-adults could respond to those tensions.Within These Walls by sara_holmes
Draco/Seamus. 24k words. I loved the way Seamus' POV was written here. It follows the circumstances at Hogwarts during the Horcrux hunt. It's quite an angsty character exploration of both. The tentative romance in the face of tragic circumstances was extremely bittersweet.And the brave man with a sword by blackkat
Godric/Salazar. Helga/Rowena. 172k words. Incomplete. The founders are immortal, fell out of touch, and recently came together again to return to Hogwarts as students during OotP in order to address rising tensions that are encroaching on their beloved school. I adored the way the fic explored the deep friendship and love between all four founders, as well as the hurt that immortality and an incident 50 years ago left on their relationships. The bits with Harry, though, seem kind of forced and almost painfully fluffy to me, but that's just me.I Am Not the Only Traveller by Graziana
Cedric/George. 25k words. All aboard the angst train. It's a soulmate AU that has an interesting spin on the soulmate aspect. I felt intense dread and anguish while reading, just a warning.Champions by ChannelTheFlannel
Harry/Cedric. 54k words. Discontinued. It's actually a part 2 in a series, but I liked this installment much more than part 1, frankly. There was a tonal shift away from romance, focusing more on plot, action, intrigue, and mystery in this AU. There's a highly creative riff on the politics and ideas of canon (werewolves), resulting in a much more dire/horrifying situation for our protagonists.I MUST NOT TELL LIES by WhatWldMrsWeasleyDo
Harry/George. 53k words. Epilogue compliant fic which follows their relationship through the years. WARNING angst train. Both of them make really poor decisions in the face of social pressure and dig holes for themselves that are impossible to get out of unscathed. Neither were blameless, and it was a bit hard to feel sympathetic to Harry in particular for that reason, but their situation and reactions were heartbreaking.no more bailing boats for me by hipsterchrist
Draco/George. 166k words. post canon fic following Draco on his long and arduous journey through therapy and mental healing. The fic expanded a lot on the worldbuilding of the wizarding world and wandlore. A lot of it was delightful, but a lot also veered towards info dumps that ground story progression to a halt.Harry Potter and the Really Roundabout way of finding a Horcrux
Harry/Percy. 25k words. Cute and character driven story, focused on various personal dramas: family drama, pining, etc. Not my usual cup of tea, but it felt authentic, though I was disturbed by the nickname "Herm".Face Death in the hope by lullabyknell
Harry/Regulus. 270k words. Ongoing. Time travel fic where Final Battle Harry goes back to when the first war starts picking up. Harry forging connections to characters, both familiar and otherwise, is a main draw to this fic. The side characters are great.Revisionism by Acacia Carter
Harry/Neville. 33k words. Unique take on the time travel fix-it trope. It's both sweet and disturbing in its implications on rewriting timelines and themselves.A Very Slytherin Harry (series) by geoffaree
Harry/Blaise. Remus/Severus. 580k words. Ongoing. Harry picks up a snake familiar pre-canon, finds out about the wizarding world, and gets sorted into Slytherin. There's Dumbledore bashing and Dad!Snape, which may turn you off. Canon rehash with these changes.Come With Us (And Things Will Never be the same but the same is boring) by victoriousscarf
Neville/WTwins. 42k words. Twins both want Neville, and ultimately decide to share. Fic focuses on the evolution of this relationship through canon and beyond. The character beats were genuine and the interactions were sweet. Occasionally some interesting takes on canon from alternate points of view.The Boys Who Lived by SeekerofTruth
Harry/Neville. 33k words. Ongoing/Dropped? The premise is that political circumstances force the two to attend a different magical school in Utah after 4th year. Great characterizations with great OC's (particularly the adults). The new school was fascinating, but a bit too "perfect" compared to Hogwarts. Enjoyed Harry's developing crush. I was hoping for more of an overarching narrative to the story when it was still updating as opposed to just attending the school day to day.Harry Potter and the Road not Taken (series) by BlueMaple
Harry/Charlie. Lucius/Narcissa. (and poly ship of sorts including them). 817k words. Ongoing. Extremely long series featuring a multiverse. It's an AU featuring hyper competent...everyone, which occasionally gets ridiculous. The choices the author makes are really hit or miss with me, but the hits are something truly spectacular to behold. In particular, the series' development of Castelebruxo School of Magic in Brazil and wizarding South America, with its horrific Lethifold problem and influence of Catholocism, was so Gothic and beautiful in its sorrow. The author's style of writing is high impact at all times, and my thoughts on it varies from powerful/awe inspiring to melodramatic/unnecessary. The segments exploring Brazil were pretty regular, but aren't the focus of the fic. AU Lucius, Neville, and Harry were all so precious and interesting, though hyper competent.How to Win Friends and Influence People by olivieblake
Hermione/Draco; Harry/Theo; Blaise/Parvati; Percy/Pansy; Marcus/Oliver; Daphne/Cadmus. 390k words. Shitton of ships, though the main one is Dramione. They all get their highlight moments at some point. Features a post-canon wizarding world that's incredibly gritty. The ensemble cast (on both sides of the law) team up to take down an international conspiracy. Y'all, Percy in this fic got me all hot and bothered wth.The Accidental Renaissance of Zacharias Smith by renaissance
Zacharias/Anthony. 86k words. Ah, Zacharias. The absolute asshole in pretty much every fic he's in. He's a pretty big asshole here, too, to be honest. He does a lot of growing to come into his own, though. Story follows Zacharias from the Battle at Hogwarts to the end of eighth year. He lands himself a job that really suits him, thrives, and grows up, all while remaining a bit of an ass. I really did enjoy this, though.The Future Within Us by GalaxyLucia
Dean/Seamus. 92k words. The fic is split into two parts. Part 1 plays out like a cute mild drama teen romance, taking place during year 6. Some teenage shenanigans, bits of interhouse unity with some OCs, etc. Part 2 follows Dumbledore's death and follows Dean until the end of the war. As you can imagine, this part has a very different tone. I really enjoyed both.The Many Occupations of Percy Weasley
Neville/Percy. 36k words. If I had to sum this fic up in one word, it'd be "frustrating". I realize it isn't exactly ringing endorsement, but hear me out. Its portrayal of post-war Wizarding Britain is one of the most likely and accurate I've come across, in all its infurating glory, if they took a hard stance to "correct" the issues Voldemort left in his wake. Characters, though changed by the war, fall back on old habits and insecurities, and considering the fic features both Neville and Percy... The war left people angry, which the Ministry didn't help with, and it's led to an unfortunate state of affairs. The ending is hopeful, though, and I'm glad I read it.Be Kind by juhele
Cedric/Harry. 141k words. Ongoing. It's a Cedric lives AU. It covers canon, 4th year and beyond, but with increasingly notable differences. The biggest being that this fic is MUCH more emotionally rewarding than canon, and not only because of the romance. On a whole, pretty much everyone in this fic is more emotionally intelligent compared to their canon counterparts, except Harry maybe. What it means is that Harry has a great support network of sorts that temper the harsher arguments and situations he encounters, leading to surprising and often emotionally satisfying consequences.
2020.08.31 23:14 Jrubas My Friend's Bed Was Haunted by Sexual Energy
2020.08.31 01:10 wintersfantasy Black Gay Characters
2020.08.29 18:23 IdolA29Augl Mat-ure G-ay for Da-ting Hel-p
Check the Profiles for Free >>>>>>>>>> 🔴►🔴► Datingsubmitted by IdolA29Augl to u/IdolA29Augl [link] [comments]
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